Doing It Downtown: An Outsiders Perspective

Commentary by M. Eagle

MSUM Journalism

Photos and Captions by Amita Manandhar

Living life small

I live in a town of 300 people. From where I live it takes about an hour and some change to get to downtown Fargo-Moorhead. I’m not familiar with the feel, culture or any of the businesses that populate downtown. Rural life differs from city life in that everything in country living is a little more difficult. In the winter months when it’s cold in downtown Fargo-Moorhead it’s always colder in my small town, flurries in the city equal near white-out conditions where I live.

We don’t have a grocery store, no movie rentals and no fast food if you crave those amenities it’s a 15-minute trip to Fergus Falls, Minn., or as we refer to it ‘town’. We have one diner but in the winter months it closes down because the owners migrate South. What we do have and the most popular businesses by far in order are the liquor store, the V.F.W and a bar. See a pattern?

So why would anyone want to live here? The rewards for the inconveniences of living in the backwoods of Minn., are the beauty rich summers that typify the lakes country.

All revved up and ready to go

Before I went to do research for this piece I asked for recommendations of where I should visit. I had my whole itinerary planned. I was going to get some gelato, visit Leena K’s and check out some of the boutiques.

I quickly realized I had picked the worst possible day of the week to take in downtown. Not only were there a few close calls with cars in ditches on the interstate because of slick roads but it was cold, and it was Sunday.

It became apparent that my Sunday afternoon of ‘doing it downtown’ was going to consist of one of two things or a combination of the two, a bar and/or a grille. After window shopping one of the businesses recommended to me and thinking it looked like a place where a school teacher would by their clothes I wasn’t entirely disappointed.

The first place I stopped at was the Sidestreet Grille and Pub located at 301 Third Ave. N. The atmosphere was pleasant and the staff was laid back. The bar had 27 beers on tap and over 60 different types bottled. I can only speak for Sunday afternoon but the Sidestreet had a quaint cozy small town feel, minus a few customers with tattoo sleeves and huge gauged ear lobes. I downed a beer and hit the road. To visit the Sidestreet Grille and Pub’s website click here.

Visitors stand outside the Sidestreet Grille and pub for a brief smoke break.

Next I grabbed some food at the sushi restaurant Wasabi at 623 NP Ave. Their presentation of the rolls was artistic and the quality was worth the money. If you’ve never tried unagi (eel) it is some of the most sweet and tender meat you’ll ever taste. The the High Plains Reader rated Wasabi as the best sushi in the Fargo-Moorhead area but I prefer Yuki Hana located at 1450 25th St. S. To visit Wasabi’s webpage click here.

Wasabi Sushi and Asian Grille located in downtown Fargo offers variety of sushi and Asian food.

My third stop was the Bismarck Tavern at 522 Broadway N. Being an ex-blue collar guy I can appreciate places like this and it definitely isn’t right for everyone. It was a little grimey, the bathrooms were dirty and the customers that were there kept to themselves. No frills and good drink prices. I would describe it as a drinking man’s dive. One thing the Bismarck Tavern has in full is character, like an attractive person with a messed up smile. To read reviews about the Bismarck Tavern as well as see a map click here.

The Bismark Tavern located in downtown Fargo.

Finally I went to the Hotel Donaldson with plans of taking in the lounge. I had been told that a lot of artist types hang out there but when I got there it was closed. 

A visitor entering the Hotel Donaldson also known as the HoDo.

When I left across the street I noticed a women’s clinic with big black closed-circuit-television-cameras outside. Then right next to the clinic wedged between that and another business was a little closet of a bar and grille called JL Beers located at 518 1st Ave.

The size alone stuffed in between two buildings made me want to go inside and see how a business like that operates and I’m glad I did. The occupancy sign next to the door said 49 and the seating was like an old fashioned diner up at a long counter. Joe, the bartender/waiter, had a gravelly voice and a good sense of humor with just the right touch of attitude. He did a sort of 20 questions type inquiry to make sure that he paired me with the perfect beer from tap according to my tastes and he did a good job.

JL Beers offers a variety of food and drinks.

Even though I had already eaten I ended up sampling a JL burger from the menu, which was priced reasonable and consisted of two cheeseburger patties and loads of fried onions on a bun. Good humor, good atmosphere, and good burgers. Out of everyplace I visited I could see myself being a regular at JL Beers. To visit J.L Beers’ web site click here.

A witty slogan on the t-shirt of JL Beers employee Jason Cossette.

Final thoughts

I wish I had known that on Sunday’s downtown shutters up but I had a good time with what was available. Overall this experience was positive and I learned some things about downtown. I think a lot of doing it downtown is what you make of it.

Edited by Kristin Kirtz MSUM journalism major

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Downtown Bathroom Guide: Men’s Edition

Photos and illustrations by Zach Kobrinsky

Whether you’re out shopping during the day or bar hopping at night, you may find yourself subject to one of our most basic and necessary human needs: the need to relieve yourself. If you’re looking for a spot to go number one, two, or even three, I offer this downtown bathroom guide in the hopes that you might find the right bathroom to serve your needs. I was unable to investigate the downtown women’s bathrooms for obvious ethical reasons, but should you be a male in need of relief, may this guide point you in the right direction.

Day bathrooms (numbers correspond to map, not to actual rank)

#1: Pita Pit (206 Broadway N)

There’s nothing horribly wrong with Pita Pit’s bathroom, but rather it’s quite plain. Functionality is the key word for this stop. It’s a one man, one toilet scenario, and by toilet I mean a multi-functional toilet. No urinals, just the old fashion john like you might find in your home. It smells quite nice, or at least it did at the time I was there. Other than that, it’s pretty boring. If you can help it, there are far more interesting and comfortable bathrooms to make in. At least the old Pita Pit’s there for you in a pinch, and the staff aren’t likely to harass you if you’re not a customer. Just walk really fast straight to the back of the establishment like you own the place.

Grade: C

#2: Atomic Coffee / Studio 222 / Spider and Company (222 Broadway N)

There is an absolute world of difference between the Pita Pit and 222’s bathroom. For one, you won’t have to hang your head in shame as you leave the bathroom without buying anything, although purchasing a double shot latte from Atomic Coffee might expedite your restroom duration. There is a public hallway, with Atomic on the left, where you will find this soiling sanctum. It has cozy, warm colors, and a general comfortable feel to it. And while I normally don’t particularly enjoy being advertised to, the collection of flyers on the walls makes for good reading material, even if they’re out of date. Decorum and comfort level aside, however, it has the same basic amenities (single stall multi-purpose toilet and sink) as Pita Pit, albeit in a more stylish setting. It may also serve you to know that the ventilation fan was out of order at the time of my investigation.
Grade: B+

Erbert & Gerbert's

#3: Erbert & Gerbert’s (300 Broadway N)

Having investigated a significant number of downtown bathrooms, a pattern begins to emerge: franchise bathrooms lack character. I will say that Erb’s and Gerb’s bathroom has more character than a Walmart bathroom, but it remains pretty sterile nonetheless. In a positive light, however, their bathroom is immaculate, and spacious to boot. This is also the first stop on the list that accommodates multiple patrons at a time. It has two urinals and two stalls (one of them handicap accessible). There is a partition between the urinals, which bodes well for urinal users that are perhaps a little self-conscious. Urinal partitions can make or break whether or not you use a urinal at all, for some. If you’re not a customer, make sure you go in the Kilbourne building entrance, and then through the Erb’s and Gerb’s side door. The staff won’t even notice you slip in and out without buying anything.
Grade: B-

Public Library

 

#4: The Downtown Public Library (209 3rd St. N)
Although it may be on the outskirts of what is typically considered the downtown area, this bathroom is well worth the trip if you can muster the wait. It’s about as spacious as downtown bathrooms get, which is kind of liberating. It has two urinals and two stalls, one of them handicap accessible. The urinals have partitions, and even drip mats to prevent any mishaps from ending up on your shoes. For the father on the go, there is a diaper changing station, complete with stainless steel veneer. The best part of the library’s bathroom is that it has wi-fi. If you have your laptop on you, you can cruise the web while you take care of business. And when you’re done and have washed your hands (assuming you do wash your hands), you have a choice between hand towels or air-drying. You can go green with the air dryer to save on paper, or you can save time by giving your hands a quick wipe. Its only pitfall is that it has kind of a corporate, impersonal feel to it.
Grade: B

Sidestreet Upstairs Bathroom

#5: The Sidestreet / Howard Johnson (301 3rd Ave N)
Time of day is a key factor in determining the worth of the Sidestreet bathrooms. During the day they can be quite pleasant. Upstairs, in the hallway between the bar and the hotel, you will find a one-person setup, although this lock-in bathroom has both classic toilet and urinal. Should you and your buddy decide to go simultaneously, the accommodations permit it if that’s what you’re into. It has a granite-top sink and burgundy walls, which significantly add character. A peculiar point of interest is that the ventilation fan has been inexplicably removed from the wall entirely. In the late hours, the missing fan may contribute to the horrendous odor that accrues. During bar hours, I typically forgo the men’s bathroom entirely and opt to use the women’s. It’s a lock-in private bathroom, don’t worry. No one’s privacy is being invaded in the process.
Grade: B-

Sidestreet Basement

In the basement on the hotel side, you will find a very different type of bathroom indeed. It has two toilets and no urinals. One of the toilets has a disconcerting permanent stain inside the bowl. It seems clean enough, or at least as clean as it can be. It seems to have suffered the wear and tear of many flushes, and there’s only so much industrial cleaners can do. If the face value of this bathroom makes you apprehensive, there are dispensable toilet seat covers available.
Grade: C-

There is yet another bathroom on the premises, but it is regarded as a privileged secret. It is clean, private and secluded. If I were to disclose the whereabouts of this bathroom, it would cease to be all those things.

Night bathrooms

I must preface the night bathroom section by pointing out that you must reduce your expectations of quality when dealing with bar bathrooms. I’ve already pointed out the disparity between day and night trips to Sidestreet bathrooms. Basically, smell and cleanliness are expected to degrade a notch between the hours of 9 p.m. and 2 a.m. Keep that in mind.

Dempsey's Main Floor

#6: Dempsey’s / The Aquarium (226 Broadway N)

The main floor of Dempsey’s has quite recently undergone some serious renovations in their bathrooms. The walls are adorned with granite tiling, which is not a cheap undertaking. It has two urinals with a partition, and a single toilet stall. What’s remarkable about the stall is that it has an actual door, as opposed to your typical metal rectangle and latch. There could be 500 people in the bar and you would still feel completely comfortable and secluded in this stall. A full-on door adds significantly to this bathroom’s quality.

Grade: B+

The Aquarium

The upstairs of Dempsey’s is a different world entirely. The Aquarium is one of the premier venues for both traveling and local musicians alike, and you can find evidence of this in the bathroom. Although some of the graffiti can be both lewd and crude, it also touts band stickers and logos from across the nation. Minnesota’s White Iron Band has made its mark prominently on the hand towel dispenser, for example. However, these bathrooms can get significantly grosser than other bar bathrooms throughout the course of an evening. But again, that is to be expected. There is a direct correlation between the amount of traffic a bar gets and the cleanliness of its bathrooms. Late night cleanliness aside, the artwork and graffiti make The Aquarium’s bathroom an unforgettable experience… in a good way.
Grade: B-


HoDo

#7: The Hotel Donaldson Lounge (101 Broadway N)
The HoDo has the best bathroom in all of downtown Fargo, hands down. I doubt anyone would dispute this claim. It’s clean, classy and elegant. It wouldn’t seem out of place for a bathroom attendant to reside their, although those guys are kind of creepy, and they’re probably better off without one. Like the rest of the HoDo, the bathroom has all original artwork. You can also solicit your wares or get informed on upcoming events via the flyer wall near the exit. This bathroom also has some kind of magical ability to stay clean and fresh-smelling, regardless of time of day. Ultimately, though, what truly makes the HoDo’s bathroom great is quality toilet paper. Very few establishments will go beyond the single-ply, but the HoDo has made it clear that it cares about its patrons by means of soft, quality T.P.
Grade: A+

Monte's

#8: Monte’s (220 Broadway N)

Monte’s is one of the closest contenders to the HoDo. It’s a single-person lock-in bathroom, but Monte’s doesn’t really need to accommodate more than that. Their traffic is significantly less than some of the other locations listed, so a bigger bathroom isn’t really necessary. Monte’s bathroom needs no bells and whistles. It stands strong by simply providing the basics, and providing them well.

The general feel of Monte’s is just comfortable. What more can you really ask for in a bathroom other than comfort? You could ask for quality T.P., but the HoDo has cornered the market on that. I was a little perplexed by the random chair sitting in the corner, but then it occurred to me that this likely serves as a changing table for single dads. A changing table the HoDo does not have, I’m afraid.
Grade: A-


The Empire

#9: Empire Tavern (424 Broadway N)
Now we begin to delve into an entirely different type of bathroom altogether: the dive bar bathroom. Dive bars are a very different kind of monster — monster being the operative word. The Empire has two urinals (no partition) and one toilet stall (handicap accessible). When choosing one of the two urinals, the issue is not if you’re comfortable urinating next to a stranger with no partition. Rather, the issue is whether or not you want random bar-goers to potentially see your business. Should you choose the urinal on the right, not only will anyone who walks in get a clear view, but under the right circumstances, a few lucky folks in the bar may just get to see the full monty. The conditions are what you might typically expect from a dive — nothing to write home about. However, it serves its function. Just keep in mind that if you’re not entirely comfortable in your skin, choose the urinal on the left if you can help it.
Grade: C

The Bismarck

#10: The Bismarck (522 Broadway N)
The Bismarck bathroom is probably the smallest bar bathroom yet addressed. It has two urinals, no partition, and one toilet stall. The problem with the toilet stall is that there is no door whatsoever. Should you choose to go number two, you will be on full display for anyone who might peak around the wall. There is no mirror above the urinals, however, so at least anyone utilizing a urinal won’t catch you in the reflection. There is a mirror near the door, but it’s distorted to the point where you almost feel like you’re in a circus fun house by using it.
Grade: D

The VFW

#11: The VFW (202 Broadway N)
For its age, the VFW bathroom is in reasonable condition. It’s kind of gross regardless of what time a day you use it, but not to the point where it’s too repulsive to use. It has two urinals and a toilet stall. There is no urinal partition, which I find is normally no big deal. However, these urinals are so close together that you’re literally going to be rubbing elbows with your neighbor. Like the library, the VFW offers a choice between hand towel or air drying, which is nice. I prefer hand towels, personally. There’s a spot on the wall near the mirror that looks like it may have been subjected to a drunken telephone conversation with a girlfriend gone horribly wrong. There a couple dents in the dry wall that appear to have been created by a fist or two. All things considered, though, its semi-dilapidated state almost gives it charm.
Grade: C



All in the Family: The Downtown Music Family Tree

The Downtown Music Family Tree - illustration by Zach Kobrinsky

Pat Lenertz on brotherhood

Pat Lenertz is a Fargo-Moorhead musician. He is the lead singer and guitarist for four bands: Heavy is the Head, The Quarterly, Bad Mojo and The Legionnaires, although the Legionnaires are currently on hiatus. How can one man lead so many successful bands at a time?

According to Lenertz, “There’s a whole collective unity amongst members of different bands and even across sub-genres….

“I don’t feel as if playing a gig is directly correlated with cutting someone out of a gig. People might feel that way in a larger city, per se, but I think there is definitely a feeling… of unity and brotherhood.”

Why Fargo is better than Minneapolis

Seth Holden performing with Sovereign Sect - Photo by Nicole Hofer

“I can personally vouch for Fargo being better than Minneapolis.” This is coming from Seth Holden of Sovereign Sect, a seasoned electronica group from F-M that has gained a reputation in F-M, Minneapolis and beyond.

According to Holden, bigger cities can never appreciate music that way the F-M downtown scene does.

“When you have that much music, you’re spoiled,” he said, “and you turn your nose up at everything…. The enthusiasm in Fargo is something not found in other cities, that’s for sure.”

Getting weird with Werewolf Bar Mitzvah

Tom Johnson on stage with the Johnson Family Band (one of the many groups he performs with) - Photo by Zach Kobrinsky

In some ways the downtown music scene has a little catching up to do. Tom Johnson (whose name is particularly not weird) and his pseudo-Semitic Avant-garde group Werewolf Bar Mitzvah actually got kicked off stage for being too weird.

Also, it’s worth mentioning that the band name “Werewolf Bar Mitzvah” is a reference to an episode of NBC’s 30 Rock.


How it went down

The conflict began as a scheduling miscommunication at the VFW.

“Basically what happened was I was told we could start at 10 p.m.” Johnson said. “We get there, and we’re opening for Classical Chill, and the guy’s like ‘Bands start at 9:30.’ I told everyone we were starting at 10, so people were coming at 10. Basically we wanted to wait for the folks who had been drinking there since probably 4:30 (p.m.) to clear out so we could get the younger crowd in.”

“So we started playing probably our three most normal songs. I mean, we weren’t going as far out as we can go, and he came up and did a ‘you’re safe’ sign, but then he basically said, ‘You’re out of here, we’re losing business over you.’”

Let’s spell “irony”

Tom Johnson and Dianne Miller as "Tom and Dianne" - Photo by Zach Kobrinsky

The irony is that several groups of WBM patrons eventually showed up fashionably late to the show, (easily outnumbering the outgoing older crowd whose interest the bartender was defending) only to find that they had missed it altogether on account of a disgruntled bartender.

Perhaps even more ironic, however, is that word spread quite quickly over this little incident at the VFW, and WBM actually gained notoriety as a result. Weird.

Krueger Construction V.P. Corey Krueger in the recording studio - Photo by Zach Kobrinsky


Why don’t they get a real job?

There is an unfortunate truth about being a F-M musician: it doesn’t pay very well. This may come as a shock, but it is true, nonetheless. How do F-M musicians deal with it? Corey Krueger has the hook up.

Krueger, the drummer for Moody River Band and V.P. of Krueger Construction, has seen to the employ of countless F-M musicians. Corey’s father and employer, Greg Krueger the president of Krueger Construction, also happens to be a drummer. And so they share a mutual respect for the duality of a musician’s life.

According to Corey, Krueger Construction is happy to hire musicians, as long as they show up and work hard, and for the most part, they do just that.

Here is a list of some of the musicians who have worked for Krueger Construction:

- Guy Nelson (Age of Consent, Your Lord and the Infinite Soul Tribe)

- Mike Murphy (FUP, Crapbarf)

- A.J. Anderson (Necktie Suicide)

- Cody Conner (Bad Mojo, Legionnaires, Moody River, runs open mic night at  Dempsey’s)

- Tom Peckskamp (Moody River, Leaving the City)

- Charlie Young (Moody River)

- Matt Monson (Ancient Protector, Moody River)

- Pat Lenertz (Heavy is the Head, The Quarterly, Bad Mojo, Legionnaires)

Is it incestuous?

Some might call the network of F-M musicians nepotistic or even incestuous. Is this the case? From a certain point of view, one might say so, and here’s an example of why. The Fargo VFW is one of downtown’s primary music venues for locals. Nathan Pitcher, who is the lead singer of Inside Out Strings handles band booking on Thursdays at the VFW.

Oddly enough, a lot of bands that some might consider buddies to Pitcher tend to get booked (including his own group). Is this playing favorites? Does it really matter? Nepotism in a small entertainment scene is good for the gander. Besides, the F-M music roster is not nearly expansive enough to avoid it, ultimately.

Speaking of incestuous…

For the sake of full disclosure, I would be remiss if I failed to mention that aside from being a journalist, I am a freelance saxophonist. I’ve sat in with a number of aforementioned groups. Should this ethically ban me from covering these bands? The best I can do is try to stay as objective as possible.

Me not writing about bands I’ve played with would be like telling the editor of a small town paper he/she can’t write about any of his/her acquaintances. In some scenarios it is simply unavoidable. Besides, I avoid writing about groups that I am an “official member” of. Writing about groups I’ve only sat in with is a little more ethically sound, in my humble opinion.

When F-M bands don’t play well with others

In the simplest terms, one might say that F-M bands must work well with others to be able to survive. An example comes to mind of how a talented band can fail when it refuses to work well with others.

Carl Clinton and the Great Divide was once a band that embodied community among musicians. When it began, it was an amalgam of 14 prominent local musicians from groups like Sovereign Sect, Johnson Family Band, Inside Out Strings, Mindfunk Allstars and WBPN.

It had a lot of promise, but over time members of the group would wax and wane. Band members would inevitably get fed up with the leadership, peter out, and new members would come in to fill the gaps, only to inevitably quit or get fired. In the end it was a failure, because the band’s leader did not play well with others.

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